Southern Times

Languedoc Languor and Midi Time

Rob — 2008-03-01T04:47:45Z

Time in the western world is a rectilinear diamond cut obstinately right angled object. Tomorrow lies 24 hours in the future, in one hour is exactly 60 minutes away.

Calendars, agendas, watches all mark the corners and junction points of human interactivity..

In the eastern world it is a more indefinite force, that can be stopped for meditation, started for action - a different way of looking at life and living.

Looking at the mores of the Midi, the region of southern France stretching from the mountains down to the coast - languedoc and its neighbours, it is quite likely that some of the Eastern mystics came here on vacation and took home as a souvenir a piece of languedoc time.

In the Midi, time is not rectilinear, time has no sharp corners, it is a rounded curving smokey substance, that can not be grasped by the hand or often by an outsider's mind.

The first experience a lot of us have with this is when a builder tells you he is coming "demain" which translates literally as tomorrow, naivete and foreigness persuades us that this means in 24 hours time. It does not, "demaing" means certainly not today, perhaps this week, possibly this month and possibly never. When and if the buider turns up, he will be astonished if you point out that you had been expecting him weeks ago.

Our first Languedoc house was in the small village of Valros in the Languedoc wine producing plains. it had a decent sized courtyard, but we decided to add a roof terrace. For this we needed an RSJ, a steel beam. Because the house was large and wide, the RSJ had also to be large and wide.

I went to a steel yard in Beziers and sat in an office with the owner, discussed dimensions and ordered the RSJ. A delivery date was fixed, which gave me time to lay the concrete pads on which the beam was going to sit. It also gave me time to arrange more hands for the day of delivery.

The delivery date came and we were all there waiting. Floors had been opened up and parts of walls knocked down so that the beam could be manhandled into place. The delivery date came and went, the beam never arrived. On ringing the steelyard, I was told that the beam would be delivered the following week on a Thursday, it wasn't.

As we were rebuilding and renovating through out, I gave up chasing and continued with other jobs. Suddenly with no warning, three weeks after the agreed delivery date, a large truck and my beam arrived. The steelyard owner was with it and he was very surprised I had not guessed which day he was actually going to deliver.

A walk up to the local cafe resulted in us finding enough hands to shift it. The beam, incidentally, was 6" deeper/taller than that which had been specified - the steelyard owner said he had done this because it would be stronger - the results of this difference in dimensions, the heights of the pads we had prepared etc., is another story.

As life in the Languedoc passed on, we have become accustomed to this and can accept appiointments, dates and hours as being wispy insubstantial things with resignation and content. It isd a large part of the pleasure of living in the Languedoc region of southern France.

It is not just us expats, the French from the more northern regions also marvel at Midi time.

At last a tasty Indian

Wendy — 2006-10-05T03:25:40Z

Le Palais des Roses

323 bd Saint Fructueux - 34400 LUNEL TÃ©l 04.67.83.03.24 ou 06.71.95.10.03

How many of you long for a decent curry, we have discovered a rather nice Indian restaurant in Lunel.it is called Le Palais des Roses.

This is the closest we have come to finding an Indian restaurant in France that serves curry's like we used to get in England. Don't get me wrong I adore the French food but do occasionally long for something a little spicy. Ask for the hot sauce to accompany your curry, it is dynamite. You can find contact details and address here at the website www.palaisdesroses34.com

Pezenas English Language Cinema Club Starts

A correspondent — 2005-10-08T04:18:23Z

For Languedoc lovers of films and cinema, PECC -the Pezenas English Language Cinema Club, has just been formed and already has an exciting program of films lined up for the Herault winter.....

Pezenas English Language Cinema Club (PECC)

First Screenings at the Cinema Moliere:
My Summer of Love (VO), (BAFTA Winner) Friday 14 October at 20H45
The Interpreter (VO), starring Oscar winners Nicole Kidman & Sean Penn Friday 4 November at 20H45

To Book:
Pre-pay before each screening for â‚¬3 from CRAIE Internet (Monday-Friday), 10 Rue Barbes, Pezenas;
or pay â‚¬5.50 on the screening night from the Cinema Moliere, Imp Pillement, (off Cours Jean Jaures) Pezenas.
Register at pecc-34@wanadoo.fr for personal reminders of screenings and for notification of future movies.

Cap d'Agde

Nigel Paige — 2005-08-18T01:16:50Z

Reading yet more less than enthusiastic comments about Cap d'Agde in a recent article on Southern Times, I was at once prompted to fire off a brief rejoinder to put the record straight and I have now been offered the chance to enlarge on the merits of 'Le Cap'.


Cap d'Agde: Peaceful morning on the channel between Ile des Pecheurs and Avant Port

It is not only in the Southern Times that misleading articles give a completely wrong impression of this brilliantly conceived resort, only yesterday (August 14th.) an article appeared in the Sunday Times Homes section under the headline 'French Mistress....no kit please we're British' referring to the 'holiday village of cap d'Agde' as a 'grim concrete holiday village' and hardly bothering to mention the rest of this great resort (believe it or not this was written by a local resident: Helena Frith Powell); similarly for many editions one of the well known holiday guides has referred to Le Cap as 'Agde's evil cousin'.
I have been a UK based french property agent/consultant specialising in the Languedoc for more than 15 years and I know that there is a lingering impression among UK holiday makers and would-be house buyers that Cap d'Agde is a Naturist resort..this probably stems from a few TV travel programmes in the seventies featuring this aspect of the resort because, as one of the first (and still the largest) places that naturists could buy apartments rather than having to put up with a tent or a mobile home it was indeed newsworthy and of course this sort of misinformed comment continue to be made by writers and journalists seeking a headline.


Cap d'Agde Views: Looking from the Conque headland across Centre Port to Mont St. Loup

The fact is that Cap d'Agde is emphatically NOT a naturist resort, the entirely separate naturist 'village' (access to which requires a special pass) represents probably less than 5% of the resort and it even has it's own small marina the sea entrance to which separates the main resort beach from the naturist beach.
To move on to the positive aspects of the main resort, although I admit that the apartment blocks are plain and uninspiring in their design (a trait entirely in keeping with the thousands of externally plain and uninspiring terraced houses which go to make up the charming inland villages), the overall lay out of the resort was exceptionally well planned around the harbour which although accommodating many yacht berths, has a central area kept free of moorings, giving the impression of a natural bay.


Cap d'Agde Harbour: The harbour entrance with the Island Fort de Brescou in the distance

Added to this is the fact that traffic has been kept well away from the beaches and harbour-side so that many apartments can provide easy access to the beaches without even having to cross a road, a fact well complemented by the vast areas of free (shady) car parking.


Cap Les Pins: Apartments in Residence Cap les Pins from the golf course

As well as featuring the beautiful crescent of sand, the Richelieu / Rochelongue beach, the resort features a fine 18 hole golf course and one of the biggest tennis centres in Europe (some 60 courts including 6 covered and of course a host of traditional holiday attractions.

Being so remarkably little known outside France, the vast majority of tourists in the Cap are still french families and this gives it a delightful friendly and safe atmosphere with never a lager lout to be seen !
In a small way I have been promoting Le Cap in the UK for the past 7 or 8 years and I know that the majority of clients I send to the resort are amazed to discover what an excellent holiday destination it is and how inexpensive the apartments are to buy or rent.
Wake up inland residents in your plain and simple villages in the 'Arriere Pays' of the Languedoc..you have a plain and simple gem of a place right on your doorstep..just like your villages only in a different way.
Wake up, travel and holiday writers, go and see 'Le Cap' with an open mind for yourselves before regurgitating old false prejudices in your writings! You are as out of date as all the old guide books which assume that the typical tourist still crawls from medieval church to ruined castle looking at battered frescoes, triptychs and weather- beaten gargoyles...they don't, they go to enjoy the beach in the Languedoc's splendid climate and may be even the odd glass of the excellent local wines and in my book there's nothing wrong in that.
Copyright 2005
Nigel Paige (email: authenticfrance@aol.com)

Authentic France
01424 425148
Leading consultants for French Property for 15 years

Southern France Restaurant Guide

A correspondent — 2005-07-14T10:27:11Z

Here is a very personal guide to eating out in the Herault.

Notes:-
1.The Languedoc pulls down the shutters and hibernates during its short winter. Check first whether the restaurant you want to go to is open.

2. French factory law heritage means that unlike their Spanish neighbours French stomachs work to a strict time schedule 12:00 - 14:00 lunch 20:00- 21:30 (latest) dinner do not dilly dally or you will be disappointed and hungry.

Apres la Deluge

5 RUE MAR PLANTAVIT Pezenas 04 67 98 10 77

This used to be recognised as one of the top restaurants in Pezenas, good food, nice ambience with honky tonk piano often playing in the background, friendly but slow service. Limited choice menus range down in price from their 35 euro 'Menu de Terroir'. Slightly disappointed on a recent visit and think that it is wiser to visit in the off season.

Les Palmiers

COUR LES PALMIERS 10 BIS MERCIERE Pezenas 04 67 09 42 56

Hidden away in the old town, this restaurant is not open in the winter months as all seating is in an open courtyard. An interesting menu making good use of spices. Well worth a visit.

Le Nouveau Printemps

2 RUE CALQUIERES BASSES, Pezenas 04 67 98 12 71

On the corner at the end of the antique shops road and below the big parking, this restaurant is run by the ex owner of the Auberge du Chateau in Margon. Very good food at resonable prices. Well worth a visit.

Le Bateleur

5 PLACE LEDRU ROLLIN, Pezenas 04 67 98 19 96
Good food well presented makes this restaurant, near the Stephenson Cafe in Pezenas's main market street, a lunchtime delight.

La Terrasse

2 PLACE GAMBETTA, Pezenas 04 67 98 25 11

Jovial host, good friendly service, good food, huge portions (if fish is your favourite dish, avoid eating for at least two days before ordering their huge and varied fish platter!), good service. This restaurant is in the square with the tourist office in the old town.

Le Zebre

Rue Aristide RouziÃ¨re, Pezenas 04 67 21 33 08

Very friendly service, nice atmosphere, not many tables but generous servings and inventive cuisine all at reasonable prices. Suits meat eaters and vegetarians This restaurant is habit forming. Just behind the post office.

Hostellerie de Saint Alban

31 ROUTE AGDE NÃ©zignan l'EvÃªque 04 67 98 11 38

Gastronomic restaurant, good food and presentation, good friendly service, quite pricy. Pleasant setting.

Le Bontemps

PLACE EGLISE Magalas 04 67 36 20 82

Bought up the old Boucherie and Magalas now boasts a gourmet restaurant. Good food good wine, chefs in white and flashing kitchen knives now the style! Worth a visit, book early because it is booked up a long way ahead and try to persuade a rich uncle to pay, cos it is not light on the pocket...

Restaurant La Maison

9 AVENUE LA GARE Tourbes 04 67 98 86 95

Honest food, good wine, friendly service, sometimes live music.Restaurant worth visiting.

Auberge de la Tour

AVENUE PEZENAS Valros 04 67 98 52 01

Very good traditional French cooking a 'terroir' restaurant. Good service and good wine list.

Renover Louer Herault

Rob — 2005-05-20T11:36:57Z

The Department of the Herault, the French state and ANAH, Agence Nationale pour l'Amelioration de l'Habitat, have all joined forces in a campaign to bring more properties in the Herault onto the letting market.

This is the first time in France that such an initiative has been launched on such a scale.
The need is obvious:-

The Herault is seeing its population grow at an unprecedented rate - more than 1000 extra inhabitants each month - as a result there is a taut property market and a growing shortage of of privately owned rental accommodation, most markedly in the East of the Herault department.
At the same time, the number of empty properties is increasing, specially in town centers.
There are already certain grants available on a very local scale (OPAH, PST etc). But the problem is departmental in scale and hence this new initiative.
This operation, 'Renover Louer', targets 161 communes (75% of the population of the Herault) in the regions of Montpellier, Sete, Frontignan, Agde, Pezenas, Clermont l"Herault and Lunel and will run for a minimum of three years.

The aim : to persuade owners, who don't want or can't afford to renovate their empty properties and hesitate to rent them out, for fear of tenant/rent problems, to join in this campaign , which works to the benefit of both owners and tenants.

The owners will benefit from exceptional grants(up to 60% of costs) towards the renovation and improvement of the properties (comfort, cleanliness, security, insulation and equipment). On their part, they must rent out each property for a minimum period of 9 years with a rent fixed by the rules of the scheme. The rental payments will be guaranteed by the state and will rise in line with inflation.

The tenants will benefit from renovated properties, fixed rents, as long as their earnings fall below a certain ceiling (65% -70% of the Herault popilation would qualify).

The first objective : 300 more properties on the rental market.

Grants range up from 40% of the renovation costs.

Please note not all the communes in the regions mentioned qualify. i.e. Gabian does not, Montagnac does.
Hence this huge ruin in Montagnac might be a very wise investment.
For more information about the schrme please visit http://renoverpourlouer.com/ the official project site.

This has been provided by Rob Thorne of The French Property Company Ltd

The Changing Profile of Southern France Summer Visitors

Richard — 2005-04-11T05:24:28Z

Going back a few years, to a time when the pound in your pocket was an immutable quantity, the most common profession that our Summer visitors belonged to was that of teaching.

Teachers have long Summer holidays and would often profit by spending them in the glorious south of France. Whether the fact that the founder of Chez Nous, that well known French vacation rentals catalogue, was a teacher was a cause or an effect of this is not clear.

Teachers often came in pairs, with their children who were probably destined to be teachers in their turn.

The last two or three years have seen a mighty change. Suddenly flocks of rocket scientists have started visiting our area. Perhaps thay are now being given longer holidays, perhaps our clear star studded skies attract them, or perhaps they get special visit-the-south-of-France EEC grants and accommodation discounts.


Rocket Science

Unlike teachers, rocket scientists do not travel in pairs - one rocket scientist in a family seems to be the norm and in 80% of cases they are female.

The scope of their speciality is much misunderstood by both members of the public and their own partners. Only too often, you will hear these gifted women explaining to their befuddled spouses which topics fall outside the Rocket Science ambit. (Quite often in a rather short tempered fashion that I think we can attribute to their work place exposure to volatile fuels).

Recently, from overheard conversations in supermarkets and cafes, I have learnt that the following topics have nothing to do with rocket science:-

Leaving a bitch on heat in the presence of a male dog often results in pregnancy and puppies. More veterinary, I would say, than rocket science.The confusion obviously arises from the American and Russian habits of sending monkeys and dogs up into space. Whether or not any of these had puppies or small monkeys is not recorded, but is obviously a possibility given the limited fields of expertise of rocket scientists.

Accurately guaging the width of one of our medieval village alleys and subtracting from that the width of a hire car to end up with a positive result. This, also, is a calculation that does not figure in rocket science text books, which leads one to believe that soon all our small alleys will be blocked by bewildered rocket scientists.

Assembling flat pack furniture is, apparently, not rocket science either. Although, I would have thought, learning to decode short cryptic badly translated instructions might be useful in the international cosmopolitan work place of the rocket scientist and might result in faster future rocket assembly.

If you hear of any other topics that are outside the scope of rocket science, feel free to add them below.
By analysing what is not rocket science, we will learn a lot more about rocket science and the rocket scientists among us.

History of the Garrigue

Peter Shield — 2005-04-07T09:02:27Z


Garrigue and Mountains

Contrary to the what most people think there is very little natural about the garrigue that covers the hills of the Aude and the Languedoc.

It is very much the product of the agricultural development of the land, the history of this ecology can be traced back over 4500 years but the last 50-60 years
have been the most dramatic. The garrigue is very much a product of man's over exploitation of the dry Mediterranean landscape.

4500 years ago the migration from the middle east brought tribes with horses, barley, sheep, and skills in copper working. The land they found was a continual forest of white and green oaks. They cleared spaces for
cultivation and used wood and charcoal for their heating and metal work, the horses gave them access to the highest forests and the sheep ate the smaller plants under the trees. 2000 years later the Romans arrived and cleared huge spaces for the great Via Domitienne and their towns (Oppida) and farms, much of which was later run down by the all conquering Visigoths. Around 1000 AD
the religious orders of Catholic monks cleared much of the coastal plains and foothills. In this period the population doubled, as the monks introduced the great mainstays of Languedocean agriculture, olives, vines
and wheat. Indeed the history of most of today's villages and small towns can be traced back to around the 11th century. The great forests where cleared, the plains filled with wheat fields, the hill sides terraced and planted with predominately olives and a few vines, sheep and goats roamed the remaining wild areas during the winters and were moved to the Pyrenean pastures during summer. The French Revolution removed the aristocracy and the remaining wild hunting areas were cut down by charcoal burners and shepherds. The agricultural pattern continued through to the 19th century, when the improved communications provided by firstly the Canal du Midi and then by steam power made the commercial exploitation of vines much more
profitable. Between Carcassonne and Toulouse the great wheat fields grew and provided the wealth for Toulouse, Castelnaudry and Carcassonne. Between 1820 and 1860 the population doubled on the back of this wheat and wine based wealth.

It was however the 1950s and 1960s which really formed the garrigue as we now know it. Five main factors totally transformed the Languedoc:

Â» In 1953 the first tractors arrived in the Languedoc this broke the reliance on horse power, a by product was that tractors could not access the steep slopes of the hills hat previously could be accessed by foot and horse, thus leaving isolated and inaccessible uncultivated.

Â» The replacement of gas with petrol produces removed the demand for charcoal and went a major way to slow down the high forest clearing.

Â» The great frost of 1956 which killed off many of the olives which covered the hillsides, most were never replanted.

Â» The common agricultural market which opened competition from British, Australian and New Zealand lamb and effectively destroyed the Languedocean sheep industry.

Â» In 1954 myxomatosis hit the Languedoc, the rabbits that had been introduced by the Romans and whose abundance and low cost had made them a mainstay of rural cuisine were wiped out, 99% of the rabbit population died.

Added to these push factors was the ever growing demand from a booming French industry, these were the Golden Years of the great factories. Faced with an ever harder life in the countryside and profitable work in the cities and towns the countryside of the Languedoc emptied of people, over a million hectares of agricultural land fell out of use in France, huge swathes of it in the Languedoc.

No longer roamed by hungry sheep and rabbits, cleared by charcoal burners, and cultivated by small holder farmers the garrigue as we now know it recovered the empty spaces of the Languedoc hillside.

However with 1,500 new arrivals every month in the Languedoc, 18,000 a year at present rates the open spaces face a new threat. Each family of three it is estimated need around 1500 square metres of land, this includes not just the house but also the public services and infrastructure needed to support them, a 1000 hectares per year are being lost to development. The great difference however is that people need water and so tend to concentrate around existing urban centres, the garrigue on the other hand can survive on very little.

Peter Shield is the editor of Midi-Life.com

Barge Cruising on the Canal du Midi

Rob — 2005-04-01T00:55:51Z

On Sunday we had lunch with Barbara and Berend Gozens in their house on the banks of the Canal du Midi in Villeneuve les Beziers.

The canal side location is not the result of a whim or a chance.

Barbara and Berend own the Clair de Lune, which is the most luxurious hotel barge plying its trade on the Canal du Midi.

The Clair de Lune reflects their 30 years of experience in the luxury canal cruise market. Barbara and Berend designed, built and decorated the Clair de Lune. From the cherry wood interior through the air conditioned cabins each with ensuite bathrooms to the six seater spa pool on the stern deck, no detail has been forgotten.

So outstanding is the Clair de Lune in the canal cruise market that she and her creators have twice been featured on French television.

The prices of charters reflect the boat, the fine cuisine, good wines and the friendly but professional crew. These cruises are special luxurious treats.
For details of prices, menus, routes and so forth please visit their site at www.bargeclairdelune.com

A Special Place to Stay

Tracie Savage — 2005-01-20T10:09:33Z

Whether swinging lazily in my hammock or lounging at the beach, whether busking at Pezenas market or decorating a renovated convent in the mountains, I often wonder how the 'other half live'. Almost two years ago, I moved to the Languedoc with no money and no real plans. Since then, I have lived well by my standards, dipping toes in both the high and low lives of the region.

One of the high points of the summer season is the slow but steady stream of visitors I have from the UK. My last visitor, Mike, brought with him a girlfriend known to all as Madam. Madam is not the easiest of people to please even when she has all the luxuries of her home city, Brighton, at her fingertips so a spell in my tiny, antiquated caravans with no electricity, running water or toilet facilities is certainly not her idea of a holiday.

Before they arrived, I had received a somewhat apologetic email from Mike asking if I knew of a good hotel/chambres d'hote. As a busker/caravan-dweller such a request was a little outside my frame of reference so I asked around some of my acquaintances that are more accustomed to this aspect of L'Herault living.


Imposing Facade

"They could try the swanky new B&B in Pezenas -opposite the Mairie. We've heard it's excellent."
I forwarded this reference plus one or two other positive comments I'd picked up regarding the place, alongside the telephone number of the chambres d'hote and a few words regarding the charming regency town of Pezenas and voila! A reservation for a room for two at the Hotel de Vigniamont promptly followed.

I accompanied Mike and Madam to check in at the Hotel de Vigniamont, situated opposite Pezenas' Mairie, in case of any language problems. We were very warmly greeted by Tracy McVeigh, who comprises one half of the British husband and wife team that have renovated this fascinating building.
Tracy is a superb host. My friends found her to be both friendly and unobtrusive at once. Tracy is also an accomplished cook and although, as chambres d'hote they do not offer meals, guests are invited to 'raid the pantry' at aperitif time. This may take place on the sun-drenched terrace or in the elegantly restored dining room. You will find the table full of items to amuse bouche, expertly prepared by Tracy from local and seasonal produce. Rob, the other half of the team, is on hand with a selection of local quality wines from their original cave, which he has personally sourced by making contact with the local vignerons.


The Internal Courtyard

The couple have very sympathetically restored their three sections of this extensive property. The renaissance staircase winds around a beautiful inner courtyard with water feature, impressive arches and romantic ambience. It was originally comprised of seven sections and was inhabited by the Count Vigniamont. Rob researched the period and property before commencing the renovation and redecoration. He is, consequently, both interesting and informative on the subject. If, like my friends and I, you are the type to be interested in the history of the places you visit he will surely inspire you to further research. His enthusiasm is surely communicable when he tells you about the keystone found dated 1589 but that the property is believed to be 17th Century and that he has carried out a net search of the family de Vigniamont that reveals some involvement in the Beziers Uprising of 1852. He has transcripts of documents pertaining to the building and the family all of which, he says, he will translate one day. Pezenas is full of history; if this appeals to you, it all positively contributes to the holiday. In addition to historical local knowledge, Rob and Tracy will recommend tourist attractions, day trips, restaurants etc.

Returning to very recent history, Rob and Tracy moved here, after checking out various regions of France, in June 2003. They began work on the renovations in October of that year and finished the following June. During that time they removed 40 tons of rubble, laid 10 tons of concrete and refloored everywhere. Luckily, the walls were sound so they were able to expose the original stonework and, with a minimum of treatment, the ceiling beams.

The decoration is tasteful and delightful, each room has it's own very individual theme so it is agreeably possible to sleep in a room that appropriates your own taste. Tracy has added the final additions by way of soft furnishings, not all of it in the style of the period but corresponding well nonetheless. As Rob put it, "I like to think that if Louis XIVth walked in here today he would feel at home." In spite of or because of various modern additions and comforts I'm sure His Royal Highness and retinue would feel entirely at home. As did Madam and Mike, who plan to return this summer.

With Pezenas an increasingly popular tourist trail and the Hotel de Vigniamont taking more guests by the day, I hope they book in good time or it'll be caravans for Madam.

Hotel de Vigniamont 5 rue Massillon 34120 PEZENAS France
+33 (0)467 35 14 88